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CHINESE TEXTILE ARCHIVE

Imperial Embroidery

Imperial Embroidery

宫廷织绣

Qing court dress was a visual system fixed by regulation: who could wear which colour, which motifs, how many dragons — all of it set down in the illustrated statutes. This section works from surviving garments and textiles, to see how those rules were carried out in silk, and where they were not.

Object records
27
Photographed
21
Motif entries
10
In public collections
97
02

The Motifs

Motifs are not catalogued as patterns. The same motif is gathered as it appears across different objects, because the differences — the spacing of a dragon’s mane, the proportion of a cloud’s head to its tail, the number of registers in a wave border — are concrete evidence for dating and attribution, not decorative knowledge.

  • Detail of an embroidered dragon’s head

    Dragon

    longwen

  • Embroidered cloud motif

    Cloud

    yunwen

  • Wave-and-mountain border

    Wave and Mountain Motif

    haishui jiangya

  • Embroidered butterfly

    Butterfly

    hudie

  • Peony in satin stitch

    Peony

    mudan

  • Gold-brocaded scrolling lotus

    Scrolling Lotus

    chanzhilian

The motif reference

Into public collections

97 objects given to the Tsinghua University Art Museum

In August 2022 Xiaojian Li donated ninety-seven objects from his collection of Chinese textiles, embroidery and dress to the Tsinghua University Art Museum: twelve garments and eighty-five textiles and embroideries.

A textile in private hands and the same textile in a public collection do not carry the same scholarly value. Once accessioned it has a number and a catalogue record, researchers can consult it through the museum’s own procedure, and work on it can accumulate.

Donation record and certificates
Donation certificate from the Tsinghua University Art Museum, for the garments including the kesi mang robe

Donation certificate · twelve garments