Bibliography
Bibliography
参考书目
The reference works this archive relies on, each with a note on what it is useful for. A working list, not a complete bibliography.
This is a working list, not a complete bibliography. It records the reference works this archive itself relies on, with a short note on what each is useful for. Entries are checked against a publisher, museum or library record before being listed; fields that could not be confirmed are left blank rather than guessed, and any doubts are stated on the entry.
9 of the 14 entries have fields that could not be confirmed; each is marked.
All Entries
Beverley Jackson and David Hugus
Reference work
Ten Speed Press
ISBN 9781580080200
The most complete English treatment of Ming and Qing rank badges and the grading system behind them. From a trade publisher rather than a university press, so check its claims against the primary regulations where it matters.
- Unconfirmed: 出版年：核到 2005，通行著录为 1999 年初版
Dieter Kuhn
Reference work
Cambridge University Press
The foundational study of Chinese textile technology — reeling, spinning wheels, water-powered spinning frames — within the Needham series. Technical rather than art-historical, and the place to go when a question is about how the thread itself was made.
- Unconfirmed: 出版年：李约瑟研究所列 1986，剑桥书评页列 1988，两处不一致
- Unconfirmed: ISBN 未在权威页面核实
Edited by Daisy Yiyou Wang and Jan Stuart
Catalogue
Yale University Press · 2018
ISBN 9780300237085
The most substantial recent catalogue on women at the Qing court, with essays on empresses’ court and festive dress. Useful for the half of the regulation that books on emperors tend to pass over.
Edited by Ming Wilson
Catalogue
V&A Publishing
ISBN 9781851776207
Catalogue of the V&A exhibition drawn from the Palace Museum, arranged by the Qing categories themselves — court, festive, travelling, military and mourning dress. The arrangement is what makes it useful: it follows the regulation rather than modern curatorial taste.
- Unconfirmed: 出版年（V&A 页面未标）
- Unconfirmed: 编者与撰稿人的确切署名方式
James C. Y. Watt and Anne E. Wardwell
Catalogue
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, with The Cleveland Museum of Art · 1997
The most cited English catalogue for Liao, Jin and Yuan silks — kesi tapestry and gold-brocaded cloth (nasij) in particular. The full text is available free from the museum.
- Unconfirmed: ISBN（馆方页面未列出）
Jean Mailey
Catalogue
The Metropolitan Museum of Art · 1980
A short exhibition catalogue, but an early and still-cited record of the Metropolitan’s Qing holdings. Free full text from the museum.
- Unconfirmed: ISBN（馆方页面未列出）
John E. Vollmer
Book
Ten Speed Press · 2002
ISBN 9781580083072
Vollmer works from garment construction — how a Qing robe is cut, seamed and assembled — rather than from surface decoration alone. That approach makes this the most useful English book for anyone handling actual garments.
Rachel Silberstein
Book
University of Washington Press · 2020
ISBN 9780295747187
On commercial embroidery in the late Qing — workshops, the trade in ready-made borders and roundels, and fashion outside the court. The necessary corrective to a literature that treats embroidery as either imperial or folk and nothing in between.
Sau Fong Chan; photography by Sarah Duncan
Catalogue
Thames & Hudson · 2023
ISBN 9780500480939
Large-format close photography of construction, seaming and stitching. For learning to read a garment’s making from its surface, the plates do more than any amount of description.
Shelagh Vainker
Book
British Museum Press · 2004
ISBN 9780714114798
The standard single-volume introduction in English. Reads silk as a cultural and economic material rather than only a technical one, which makes it the right place to begin before working on objects.
- Unconfirmed: 另有 Rutgers University Press 版，书号不同
Verity Wilson
Catalogue
V&A Publications
ISBN 9781851774388
A guide to the V&A’s Chinese textile holdings by the museum’s former curator. Compact, and a common starting point for orientation in the field.
- Unconfirmed: 出版年（V&A 页面未标）
Young Yang Chung
Book
Harry N. Abrams · 2005
The only large-scale English survey covering embroidery across East Asia. The Chinese section is the longest, and the comparative frame is what makes it worth having: it shows which features of Chinese practice are particular and which are regional.
- Unconfirmed: ISBN（未在权威页面核实）
Zhao Feng, Li Wenying, Chen Juanjuan, Huang Nengfu, Peng Hao; edited by James C. Y. Watt and Dieter Kuhn
Reference work
Yale University Press · 2012
ISBN 9780300111033
The fullest reference on Chinese silk in English — a Chinese–American collaboration running to more than six hundred pages, covering weave structures and kesi alongside the historical narrative. Where a question needs a technical answer, this is usually the book that has it.
By Subject
Silk and textile history
Embroidery
Court dress and regulation
- John E. Vollmer, Ruling from the Dragon Throne: Costume of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911)
- Jean Mailey, The Manchu Dragon: Costumes of the Ch'ing Dynasty, 1644–1912
- Edited by Ming Wilson, Imperial Chinese Robes from the Forbidden City
- Sau Fong Chan, Chinese Dress in Detail
- Edited by Daisy Yiyou Wang, Empresses of China's Forbidden City, 1644–1912
- Beverley Jackson, Ladder to the Clouds: Intrigue and Tradition in Chinese Rank
Motifs and iconography
Technique and technology
- James C. Y. Watt, When Silk Was Gold: Central Asian and Chinese Textiles
- Zhao Feng, Chinese Silks
- Dieter Kuhn, Science and Civilisation in China, Vol. 5, Part 9: Textile Technology — Spinning and Reeling
- Sau Fong Chan, Chinese Dress in Detail
- Young Yang Chung, Silken Threads: A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam
Corrections are welcome, particularly on the entries marked as uncertain.